Symbio's
Non-Toxic
Index
Thank you for visiting
this site.
Here you will find information
that I hope will enable you to use non-toxic methods that are available to
control various "pests" that you may come into contact with.
This index is limited to
"pests" that are insects or related arthropods such as mites and
ticks. It assumes you have been successful in at least identifying the pest in
question, and are seeking additional information about how best to control it
without the use of harmful chemicals or toxins.
I have purposefully not
included pest life cycles here that would generally bore most individuals who
are seeking quick answers to their problems and not the details; however, if
you are interested in this, there are numerous web sites that will provide you
with all the detail you could possibly imagine about any given pest.
If you are unsure about
what pest is bothering you, and the photographs here are not helpful enough,
you can call your local extension agent, or any pest control operator where you
live, and I'm sure they will be able to determine exactly what you're dealing
with.
Most people are simply not
aware that there is a non-toxic method that will control or at least allow you
to tolerate any pest that you could possibly think of.
This information has been
culled from many sources, and is at the very least a modest, generalized source
that should enable you to have greater success in dealing with your particular
pest problems.
Though I believe the
information contained herein is accurate based on my own background and
experience in pest management, I cannot vouch for or validate all of this data,
as I certainly have not tested each of these methods.
The pest categories are
arranged alphabetically, and include the majority of non-farm related pests
that occur in homes and businesses.
This
page will be updated continuously and the data added to each category as more
information is received, so check back occasionally for the latest revisions.
Click on "pest"
below to teleport you to controls
ANTS
APHIDS
BEES
BEETLES
BUGS
CATERPILLARS AND MOTHS
COCKROACHES
CRICKETS AND GRASSHOPPERS
EARWIGS
FLEAS
FLIES
LEAFHOPPERS
LICE
MEALYBUGS
MITES
MOSQUITOES
SCALES
SCORPIONS
SILVERFISH AND FIREBRATS
SPIDERS
TERMITES
THRIPS
TICKS
WASPS
WHITEFLIES
GENERAL
To attract natural
enemies to your garden, try to avoid the use of pesticides, and, instead, plant
a wide variety of flowering plants.
Keep in mind
that because pesticides used outdoors are not selective, they can also reduce
the beneficial insects that prey on the insect you are after which can cause a
resurgence of the pest.
Resist the
urge to use fertilizers on lawns since they may contain pesticides that can
easily leach into storm drains and contaminate creeks and other waterways.
Pyrethrins
and their various derivatives (pyrethroids, pyrethrum, and permethrin) are
mentioned throughout this index as being more benign substances that can be
used against insects that are bothering you.
But remember that these are still chemicals, and just because they have
less pronounced effects against birds, mammals, and humans up the food chain,
it certainly does not mean that they do not have a negative impact on
organisms such as beneficial insects and spiders, crustaceans, amphibians,
reptiles, and fish. Use these substances
sparingly and infrequently, and, when possible, try to use
alternative methods from this index and from other “green” websites to resolve
your pest management problems. Indeed, published studies have shown a link
between the use of household pesticides and childhood leukemia.
Commercially available wildflower seed mixes will help to increase the number
of beneficial arthropods in turf grasses.
Ground cover plants also provide a favorable microhabitat for the survival of
natural enemies.
Certain flowers such
as sunflowers, marigolds, cosmos, amaranthus, and portulaca attract birds such as cardinals, finches, and
sparrows that feed mainly on insects and weeds, and not on fruit or berries.
Planting
sunflowers on organic farms will attract numerous beneficial insects which can
significantly reduce pest insects in cropped fields.
Planting fennel will also attract numerous beneficial insects.
To reduce future pest problems, save seeds from resistant plants.
To encourage beneficial predaceous bugs, beetles, and spiders, use organic
mulches.
To encourage beneficial parasitoids, plant early-blooming
flowers such as daisies.
Interplanting with basil can reduce pests in the
garden; as plants mature, leaves or flowers can then be used to make extracts
that can then be used as pesticides.
Beneficial ladybugs can be attracted with plantings of black locust, crimson
clover, flowering buckwheat, tansy, yarrow, and cosmos.
Beneficial wasps can be attracted by yarrow, white sweet clover, tansy, sweet
fennel, sweet alyssum, spearmint, Queen Anne's lace, hairy vetch, coreopsis,
rudbeckia, flowering buckwheat, cowpea, common knot wood, and caraway.
Beneficial predatory bugs prefer berseem, subterranean clover, and
baby-blue-eyes.
Beneficial flies are attracted by wild buckwheat, white sweet clover, toothpick
ami, sweet alyssum, soap-bark tree, Queen Anne's lace, caraway, California
lilac, flowering buckwheat, Scabiosa, wild carrot, yarrow, coreopsis,
coriander, cilantro, phacelia, and baby-blue-eyes.
Beneficial lacewings
like tansy, Queen Anne's lace, flowering buckwheat, caraway, and cosmos.
Solutions of aspirin or salicylic acid, when added to plants, can give
protection against plant pathogens and insects. Planting pansies, the shrub
meadowsweet, birch, or wintergreen, provides a protective effect for the soil.
Garlic extracts can suppress plant pathogens, pest nematodes, and many other
injurious insects.
Teflon barrier sprays and tape can be used on surfaces such as pet bowls, bird
feeders, pipes, garbage cans, trees, etc. to discourage access to these
structures.
Sprinkle black pepper on home surfaces to prevent pest access by ants, beetles,
silverfish, roaches, and moths.
Mothballs in the garbage, and bay leaves in drawers and cabinets, will
discourage bugs from visiting.
Fresh wormwood leaves crushed into a soggy pulp, and then mixed with some apple
cider vinegar can be used externally on humans and pets as an effective insect
repellent against biting flies and mosquitoes. Hang wormwood sprigs in closets
to repel moths and other insects.
Use a paste made from curry powder and water to relieve the itching and
inflammation of insect bites and stings. When the paste dries, the swelling and
pain should disappear as well.
To make an effective insect repellent, dilute one teaspoon of eucalyptus
essential oil in two cups of warm water. Apply externally to skin or use in a
spray bottle to mist plants.
Marigold root extracts have shown promise for use as an alternative pesticide.
Keep in mind that no kind of packaging, except cans, is totally resistant to
insect attack.
The use of
greenhouse plastic films and aluminum reflective mulches that block the
transmission of UV light can be used to repel insects such as whiteflies and
thrips.
If you plan on using silica gel or diatomaceous earth for your pest control
needs, remember that these agents become less effective as relative humidity increases.
Coca leaves are natural insecticides.
Try using sodium vapor lamps or yellow-tinted lights
instead of white, neon, or mercury vapor varieties to discourage insects from
visiting your home, garden, or facility.
Mercury-vapor is the most attractive light form to many insects.
ANTS
Ants are considered
to be the most successful and versatile of all insects, occurring practically
everywhere, and easily outnumbering in individuals all other land animals
combined.
Ants have chewing mouthparts and include predators, scavengers, and
plant-eaters. Some ants also feed on nectar, honeydew, and other substances.
The red imported fire ant (pictured above left) prefers warm climates, and is
very sensitive to ground vibrations. If their mound is disturbed, thousands of
workers will pour out and attack anything that moves. They bite and have a
painful, venomous sting.
Fire ants
prefer open, sunny pastures. They do not like shade and are vulnerable to low
temperatures. Indeed, sustained freezing air temperatures (about a week) will
likely kill off most colonies.
To reduce
the likelihood of fire ant mounds forming on your property, plant more shade
trees, shrubs, flower gardens, and ground covers.
Fire ants prefer to nest outdoors, but can build nests in wall voids, under
rugs, in boxes in the attic, and even in clothes in drawers. They also nest in
logs and under sidewalks. One colony
(including the queen) was even found nesting in the pollution control canister
of a frequently driven Buick Regal automobile.
When fire
ants enter homes, they may be looking for food or water, or more likely, it may
be due to flooding, which causes them to seek higher and drier ground. They
will bring in soil, and stay indoors as long as there is an available moisture
source, such as from a leaking water pipe.
Like other ants, fire ants are attracted to electrical devices such as
transformers, televisions, air conditioners, and computers.
Fire ants will eat almost anything. One of their favorite foods is Coca Cola.
They also like tuna fish and grape jelly.
If fire ants are coming inside, follow the trail outside to the nest and
destroy it with boiling water.
To use hot water as a mound treatment for fire ants:
Pick a sunny,
but cool day when ants are near the surface.
Treat the
sunny side of the mound early in the morning.
Slowly pour
out about three gallons of boiling water per mound.
When pouring,
try to collapse as much of the mound as possible.
Break the
mound surface first if it appears hard or crusty.
Portable boilers are available commercially to treat mounds over a large area.
Fire ant
mounds can be leveled by plowing.
Some
evidence suggests that citrus peel extracts (orange oil) when mixed with water
can provide at least 80% control against fire ants when used as a mound drench.
Woodstream
Corporation’s Victor Poison-Free Ant & Roach Killer uses a 4% Japanese mint
essential oil blend as a slowly effective knockdown treatment for fire ants.
An
Some studies
have shown that baking soda can protect electric utility boxes from
colonization from fire ants. It does not
appear to be as effective as a mound treatment, however.
Bushwhacker® is a boric
acid bait registered for fire ant control.
The decapitating phorid fly (Pseudacteon spp.) is a parasitoid that has
been used successfully to control fire ant populations. Fire ants are so afraid of this fly that they
have even been spotted riding piggyback (as lookouts) on their fellow ants to
protect them when they are out foraging for food.
Phorid flies
can be active at different times of the day and will attack worker ants that
are of different sizes. A single fly can
stop the foraging of hundreds of workers.
Some studies
have shown that phorid flies are attracted to fire ant colonies that have been
disturbed in some way. These
disturbances may be due to aggressive interactions with other ants, predators,
or humans. There is some suggestive
evidence that these flies may be attracted to the chemical cues (i.e. alarm
pheromones) released by these “disturbed” ants.
Nematodes (Steinernema spp.) and parasitic mites (Pyemotes tritici)
have been used with some limited success to control fire ants.
Some
evidence suggests that the larvae and pupal stages of fire ants are more
susceptible to nematode infection than adults.
Some fire ant colonies will actually abandon mounds that have been
treated with nematodes which can limit their effectiveness.
The pathogenic microsporidium (Thelohania solenopsae), a protozoan, has
shown some initial success in infecting fire ant colonies under controlled
conditions. It is one of the most common
microorganisms found in fire ant colonies.
This organism can infect all stages of fire ants, and will weaken the
queen so that eventually egg-laying will cease.
Super
colonies of fire ants that contain multiple queens can also be controlled with the
use of these microsporidia, although it may take a year or longer to eliminate
entire colonies.
When used in
combination with diatomaceous earth, this protozoan was able to induce much
higher mortalities of fire ant colonies in a shorter time period than either
control method alone.
Some
evidence suggests that certain fungi (e.g. Metarhizium anisopliae and
Beauveria bassiana) could provide a sufficiently high enough infection rate
to be used in fire ant control programs.
Carpenter ants (pictured above right) are larger black ants that may be found
in homes foraging for proteins or sweets.
They cannot sting, but can deliver a painful bite.
Carpenter
ants do not actually feed on wood.
They, instead, use the wood to burrow into to build their nests. They prefer to inhabit weathered, damaged, or
neglected portions of homes or structures.
Like fire
ants, carpenter ants will eat almost anything.
Pet food is one of their favorites.
Like other
sweet-loving ants, carpenter ants often “milk” aphids to obtain honeydew which
is used to feed other colony members. To
control their populations, please browse the section under APHIDS.
Carpenter
ant queens prefer to build colonies and nests outdoors, often in shade trees or
utility poles. They will also construct
colonies in fallen logs and tree stumps.
They do, however, sometimes construct so-called “satellite” nests
indoors.
In some
areas, carpenter ants are considered to be more of a structural threat to
buildings than termites.
Structures
that are most susceptible to damage by carpenter ants are frame houses without
basements, and any structures built near the edge of a forest.
Carpenter
ants tend to be more active at night.
Carpenter ants
prefer humid conditions, and can be found in areas of the home such as
kitchens, bathrooms, roofs, and attics where these conditions exist.
Suspect
carpenter ants if you notice what looks like pencil shavings in areas such as
closets, drawers, around electrical outlets, and under insulation.
Carpenter
ants make a characteristic noise if you tap on a wood wall near their nest. Use
an inverted water glass to listen in. The noise is like crumbling
cellophane.
To
discourage carpenter ant visits:
Store foods
in ant-proof containers.
Prune tree
branches and vegetation away from structures.
Repair nearby
damaged trees to prevent carpenter ant access.
Burn or
remove tree stumps (do not bury them).
Store firewood above the ground and far away from structures.
Check
firewood for ants before bringing indoors.
Keep external
surfaces of homes and structures free of holes and access points.
Repair any
weather-damaged areas of structures which also attract ants.
Treat wall
voids with borates or desiccants to keep out ants.
Additionally,
it would be helpful to repair any water leaks around the home, be sure gutters
aren’t clogged to allow for good drainage, improve ventilation in susceptible
areas such as attics and basements, and seal up areas where wiring enters
structures.
Use borates
to make wood toxic to carpenter ants indoors. For a more thorough discussion of
borate control for carpenter ants, please see the section under TERMITES.
Large
outdoor nests can be treated with less toxic pyrethroid insecticides such as
beta-cyfluthrin (e.g. Tempo®).
Portable
vacuums such as Bon-Aire Industries, Inc. Bon-Aire “SuperVac”® Canister
vacuum are available commercially to help collect entire colonies of these
ants.
For larger
indoor carpenter ant infestations, Isothermics, Inc. Heatwave® utilizes
directed hot air through flexible ducts into a structure by means of special
forced-air systems with the object of heating wood to at least 130 ° F., the lethal temperature for most
insects.
A 0.5 - 1%
boric acid/sugar water solution (10 - 25% sucrose) is an
effective control bait against most sweet-loving ants including the
pharaoh, carpenter, argentine, and fire ant. Patience will be necessary when
using this method, as it may take up to several months to obtain 100% control
of these colonies. These baits are
available commercially under brand names such as Drax Liquidator®, and Advance Liquid Bait®.
Use Maxforce® gel bait stations to control indoor
carpenter ant infestations.
Baits that work slowly (e.g. boric acid or borax) are more likely to eliminate
queens as well as workers.
Cookie
crumbs and peanut butter have been used successfully as excellent bait sources
for sweet-loving ants.
Pavement ants can be controlled with a 5% boric acid solution
mixed with equal parts of peanut butter and Crisco™ cooking oil.
Argentine
ants and the odorous house ant seem to be particularly sensitive to cedar. Argentine ants, in particular, seem to avoid
cedar mulch as a nesting substrate. Using cedar mulches around the home and
garden may help repel these ants from your area.
In colder months,
Argentine ant colonies can often be found in compost piles and decomposing
vegetation, but are not typically active if temperatures drop below 50°
F. Eliminating these harborages can help
reduce their numbers around your home or facility.
In temperate
climates, pharaoh ants actually prefer to nest inside homes or
facilities, and workers may search for food outdoors. In the tropics, or in
areas where warmer temperatures are maintained, nests are established outdoors.
Indoors, pharaoh ants are most commonly found foraging
around windows. This is partially due to
their fondness for dead insects that are often found on window sills which
serve as a food source for the colony.
Keeping this area clean will help reduce their numbers and prevent them
from needing an excuse to explore other areas of your home for food.
Drax® is an ant bait that is composed of
boric acid and mint jelly that is very effective against pharaoh ants.
Insecticide sprays alone are not effective in reducing or controlling most ant
populations.
To discourage ants (in general) from visiting your home or facility:
Wrap garbage
cans and recycling containers with Teflon tape or some other barrier.
Caulk and
seal crack-and-crevice entry points.
Store unrefrigerated foods in metal cans or jars with tight-fitting
rubber seals.
Keep the
kitchen as clean and dry as possible and free of even tiny food scraps.
Smear a thin
layer of Vaseline or sticky tape around the edges of pet bowls.
Use soapy
water and bleach to eliminate ant trail odors.
Vacuum
frequently to remove ants and their trail odors.
Weather-strip
windows and doors to prevent access.
Use baits
rather than insecticides if colonies become established.
There are ants that invade homes that will actually feed on and carry off the
soap left in your soap dish, and on the mildew and fungus that you might ignore
on your bathtub. You may want to consider switching to liquid soap or use an
ant-proof soapbox if you are unfortunate enough (like I have been) to encounter
these ants. Keeping a clean bathroom will prevent the appearance of
mildew-loving ants.
Many sweet-loving ants can easily penetrate plastic packaging including tough
shrink-wrap to get to food (I can tell you this from experience), and can
easily squeeze into grooves between metal screw top jar lids and glass. Refrigerate foods that come in plastic
packages (e.g. pasta, candy) and/or use jars with rubber seals to protect your
food from these ants.
Some ants may try to nest in your potted plants. Fill the overflow tray with
some soapy water to keep them away.
Cloves, dried coffee grounds, and pepper repel ants.
Mix two parts borax with one part sugar for a lethal ant poison.
Boric acid powder can be applied as a crack and crevice treatment against most
ants.
Many ant
species are attracted to electrical power sources. Smear a thin layer of
Vaseline around electrical outlets to prevent ant access into your home or
facility.
Ants will
not cross certain physical barriers such as chalk and Vaseline.
Ant guards
are also available commercially to protect electrical outlets, plumbing,
furniture, pet bowls, etc. to prevent ants from gaining access to homes and
other items.
Dorsey Inc. (Shellshock®) is a registered desiccant made up of 85%
diatomaceous earth and comes in a squeeze dust applicator, but is generally
slower acting as an ant control treatment (six weeks or more).
Silica gel and diatomaceous earth can both be used inside houses to treat
cracks, wall crevices, wall voids, and attics to repel most ants and deny
harborage in these areas.
Organic Plus Inc. (Organic Plus®) is a desiccant registered for home and
garden use for ant control.
Try soap sprays with citrus oil to control ants.
Garlic sprays have also been shown to be effective against ants.
Sprinkle
garlic powder along windowsills, and as a crack and crevice treatment to
discourage ants from entering your home or facility.
Ants can be excluded from shrubs and trees by spraying or painting a 4"
wide band of sticky adhesive around the stem or trunk.
Leaf-cutter ants can be repelled by the use of basil oil compounds.
Leaf-cutter
ants like Kelloggs® cornflakes. They build their fungus gardens on them.
Squeeze lemon juice on surfaces to prevent access by ants.
Catnip oil
has been shown to be repellent to fire ants, pharaoh ants, and carpenter ants.
Pyrethrin can be used in combination with silica gel or diatomaceous earth as
an effective indoors ant repellent.
APHIDS
Aphids, also called
plant lice or greenbugs, are a large group of small, soft-bodied insects that
are often found in large numbers sucking the sap from the leaves or stems of
plants.
Enormous populations of aphids can be built up in a very short time due to the
very high reproductive potential of these insects.
Aphids can also transmit viruses to plants, which can cause disease in fruits
such as strawberries and melons, and in many
vegetables as well.
Certain ants have a tendency to protect aphids from their natural enemies due
to their desire to "milk" them of sweet secretions, which nourish
colony members. To reduce ant numbers, you might consider using a bait station
in these circumstances. For more information about these baits, see the section
above under ANTS.
Aphids can be controlled by the following insect predators, which you can
purchase for your individual use, and are available commercially from producers
and suppliers:
Convergent Lady Beetle (Ladybug)(Hippodamia convergens)
Predatory Lady Beetle (Various spp.)
Lacewing (Chrysoperla spp.)
Chinese Preying Mantis (Tenodera sinensis)
Predatory Anthocorid (Pirate) Bugs (Orius spp.)
Aphid Midge (Aphidoletes aphidimyza)
Mirid Bug (Deraeocoris brevis)
Parasitoid Wasps (Various spp.)
Although ladybugs are excellent voracious aphid predators, keep in mind that
they have a natural tendency to disperse, and for this reason are generally not
recommended for use in gardens; however, they can be used successfully in
indoor environments such as greenhouses.
Ladybugs can
be used more successfully for control purposes when aphid densities on plants
are very high and localized. Ladybugs
are limited in their ability to search out and detect aphids and other prey
over larger distances. It is recommended
that they be released during the evening because bright sunlight can encourage
their flight.
Lacewing larvae are more cost effective as predators, and will consume aphids
and other pests as efficiently as ladybugs.
Spraying a solution of one part sugar with ten parts water onto
aphid-susceptible plants will encourage the arrival of beneficial insects.
Oils sprayed as an emulsion in water can be an effective control against
aphids. Fish, petroleum, or vegetable oils can be used.
A 2% emulsion of basil, avocado, or clove oil can also be used to repel aphids.
Cinnamon oil (e.g. Cinnacure®) sprays have shown some success in
controlling aphid populations.
Soap sprays with citrus oil or pyrethrin will provide a rapid knockdown effect
against aphids.
For aphid infestations, use soap or oil sprays for knockdown, then release
natural enemies. Soaps and oils must be sprayed directly on aphids to be
effective. Apply once a week in warm weather, and every two weeks when it is
cooler.
Avoid feeding plants nitrogen fertilizer which encourages plant growth and
aphids to reproduce.
Cover fruits and vegetables in garden beds with finely spun row cover material
sold at garden centers; these serve as a barrier to aphids and other insects
(not recommended for use in high temperatures because of the increased ground
temperature and humidity).
A more convenient method to remove aphids is to hose down plants with tap water
three times a week for about 30 seconds each time early in the day so that
leaves dry before nightfall.
Garlic sprays and hot pepper wax have been used to repel aphids.
Diatomaceous earth can be used as a desiccant control for aphids.
Neem tree
extract sprays are an effective control against aphids as well.
Earwigs are effective night predators of aphids.
Blend eight tomato leaves and two cups of water for another effective spray for
aphid control.
Blending garlic with peppercorns has also been used effectively in spray
formulations to repel aphids.
Ground beetles will also consume aphids that have dropped off leaves due to
predation pressures by ladybugs and lacewings.
Sticky traps, tapes, and adhesives can be used to control and repel aphids.
Various fungi can be purchased commercially and used as microbial insecticides
to control aphids both in the garden and in greenhouses.
The European
corporation, Koppert, produces and distributes a fungal strain (i.e. Verticillium
lecanii)(Vertalec®) for aphid control.
Sabadilla powder is toxic to aphids.
The use of
reflective mulches can significantly reduce the number of aphids appearing on
many vegetable crops.
Greenhouse experiments
have shown that soil growth mediums made from food waste (vermicomposts) were
effective in reducing pest outbreaks of aphids.
Plants were less attractive to aphids and reduced their reproductive
rates as well.
BEES
Honeybees,
bumblebees, and other bees are valuable beneficial insects that are responsible
for the pollination of numerous flowers and crops.
Africanized or "killer" bees are also honeybees, but are more aggressive,
and can be dangerous to both humans and animals when threatened.
To lessen your exposure to "killer" bees:
Avoid wearing
perfumes and other sweet-smelling products.
Bees may feel
threatened by bright or dark colored clothing.
Loud noises
and shiny jewelry may also be perceived as threats.
These bees
are sensitive to vibrations such as from power equipment.
Bees only
attack when they believe the colony is threatened.
The hive
itself need not be disturbed for bees to attack.
Some colonies
may attack any threat within 100 feet of the hive.
Disturbed
colonies may remain agitated for up to 24 hours.
Bees will
typically attack the head and ankles.
If attacked,
cover your head and run away in a straight line.
Don't hide
underwater, as bees may wait for you to surface.
A swarm may
pursue you up to a quarter of a mile.
Bees are slow
fliers, so you may be able to outrun them.
BEETLES
Beetles comprise the
largest group of insects and contain about 40% of all known species.
Beetles have chewing mouthparts and include predators, plant-eaters, parasites,
and scavengers.
Beetles can also transmit viruses to plants which can
cause disease in some crops such a soybeans.
Silica gel and diatomaceous earth can both be used inside houses to treat
cracks, wall crevices, wall voids, and attics to repel beetles and deny
harborage in these areas.
Organic Plus Inc. (Organic Plus®) is a desiccant registered for home and
garden use for beetle control.
Neem tree extract sprays can be used as well to effectively suppress beetle and
weevil populations.
The Japanese beetle (pictured above center), is one of the most widespread and
destructive pest of turf and landscape plants in the
Adult
Japanese beetles can feed on over 300 varieties of wild and cultivated plants,
and are generally more difficult to control because they are highly mobile. In
contrast, the egg and early grub stages are particularly sensitive to moisture
and temperature extremes, including desiccation.
Grubs are
the larval form of various beetles which can sometimes cause heavy damage to the
roots of turf grasses which they feed on.
Infested turf may appear to be gray or off color in appearance. Turf may also feel spongy when walked on due
to tunneling by these grubs. After the
roots have been consumed, sections of turf can be actually rolled up like a
carpet.
During the
summer, when Japanese beetles lay eggs in the soil, letting the grass grow a
little longer, and reducing watering of the turf, can also help decrease egg
laying by adult females.
Some evidence
suggests that plowing fields can reduce adult and larval beetle populations in
some row crops such as blueberries.
Sticky traps
and tapes can be used to control Japanese beetle adults on lawns.
Pheromone
traps have been used to attract large numbers of adult Japanese beetles on golf
courses, but these products are not yet available commercially.
Canola oil
and neem have been used as feeding deterrents against the Japanese beetle.
Parasitic
nematodes (e.g. Steinernema spp. and Heterorhabditis spp.) can
infect and reduce the number of white grubs and adults of the Japanese
beetle. Some nematodes simply chase
after their victim, while others will actually stand on their tails and leap
onto their prey as they pass by.
Some
bacterial pathogens (e.g. Bacillus thuringiensis) are highly toxic to
Japanese beetle grubs in turf. Bacillus
thuringiensis has also been found
to be toxic to some weevil larvae (e.g. Diaprepes abbreviatus).
Some species
of fungi (e.g. Metarhizium
anisopliae and Beauveria
bassiana) can also infect Japanese beetle larvae.
Neem
extracts have also been shown to be harmful to Japanese beetle larvae by
disrupting their ability to develop into adults.
Use borates to make wood toxic to wood boring beetles. Borates are most
effective against the larval (grub) stage of these beetles.
For a more thorough discussion of borate control for wood boring beetles,
please see the section under TERMITES.
The Colorado potato beetle prefers to feed on solanaceous crops such as
potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant.
Avoid
feeding plants nitrogen which encourages these beetles to reproduce.
A 2%
emulsion of basil or avocado oil can be used to repel the Colorado potato
beetle.
Black pepper and neem extracts have also
been used to control these beetles.
Some studies
have shown that catnip oil will stop
Evidence
from
The use of
straw mulch in fields significantly reduced damage by these beetles by
attracting beneficial insects that prey on them such as ladybird beetles,
lacewings, and stink bugs.
Studies from
Plastic
V-shaped trenches have been used successfully to trap these beetles.
The predatory stink bug (Perillus bioculatus) and the spined soldier bug
(Podisus maculiventris) can be purchased commercially to control the
Colorado potato beetle.
Insect
growth regulators (e.g. novaluron, hexaflumuron) have shown some promise in the
control of Colorado potato beetle larvae.
There is evidence to suggest, however, that non-target organisms such as
the spined soldier bug (Podisus maculiventris) can be adversely impacted
by this type of control. The soldier bug
is a predator that typically feeds on potato beetles.
Selected
fungi (e.g. Beauveria bassiana) have also been used in potato fields to
help control the Colorado potato beetle.
Some
evidence suggests that adult potato beetles can be attracted to objects such as
paper boards or large beads that are colored with yellow and black stripes, or
to those objects with yellow and light-green patterns.
June beetles prefer to lay eggs on golf courses, pastures, and
fields that have been treated with organic covers and fertilizers such as
manures, compost, and hay. Their grubs feed on the organic matter at the base of grass
roots and are fond of short, mowed grasses.
Keep in mind
that most damage associated with grubs is actually caused by raccoons, skunks,
and other animals, which often dig up lawns to feed on grubs.
The larvae
of robber flies (Promachus yesonicus) have been used with success in
On Korean
golf courses, the use of entomopathogenic nematodes in combination with the
fungus, Beauveria brongniartii, provided good biological control over
white grubs in the soil.
Carpet beetle larvae (adult pictured above right) will eat just about anything
including carpets, grain, skin, and even other insects. The adults do not cause damage to fibers and
foods in your home (they feed on pollen and nectar), are attracted to lights,
and often access homes through unscreened windows.
Because
adult beetles are highly attracted to light sources, they can often be found
(often dead) at the base of lamp fixtures inside your house that are closest to
windows. If you happen to use compact
fluorescent bulbs, you may see them accumulate on the flattened-out base of
these bulbs. This can happen despite window screening due to holes in screens
or areas where the screening may not join the window frame precisely.
To
discourage their visits, check and repair or replace your screening first, and
then try moving bright light sources away from windows. You can also try using low-intensity bulbs,
but be sure to check window sills and around lamp bases to see if they are
still getting in. Keep in mind that
porch and patio lights that are kept on in the evening will also attract adult
beetles to your home.
Frequent
vacuuming of carpets will keep carpet beetle populations low. If you have a severe infestation, steam
cleaning your carpets may be needed.
If you
notice damaged clothing, it may be best to just trash them due to possible
infestation from eggs and larvae.
Washing infested clothes, and then drying them in a clothes dryer (run
at high temperature for at least 30 minutes) will eliminate carpet beetle eggs
and larvae.
Carpet
beetle larvae will also feed on grains that can found in items such as boxed
cereals. Be sure to check these food
sources and discard if they are infested.
It is best to store cereal boxes and other grains either in tight
fitting jars or in the refrigerator to protect them from larvae.
Boric acid powder can be used as a treatment against carpet beetles.
Low temperatures will also keep carpet beetle populations suppressed.
Cedar wood
and cedar oil vapor will repel carpet beetles.
Some studies
out of
Cover fruits and vegetables in garden beds with finely-spun row cover material
sold at garden centers; these serve as a barrier to plant-eating beetles and
other insects (not recommended for use in high temperatures because of the
increased ground temperature and humidity).
Garlic sprays have also been shown to be effective beetle repellents.
Soap sprays with citrus oil or pyrethrin can be an effective control against
some plant-eating beetles.
Some beetles and weevils (e.g. grain weevil pictured above left) that infest
grain storage facilities and processing plants may also show up occasionally in
your packaged beans, seeds, cereal, rice, and pasta products that you bring
home from your local grocery store.
These insects do not bite or sting, and will not have the ability to
transmit any diseases to humans.
To prevent these
insects from becoming your roommates, pay attention to packaged grain products
and pet food bags that you purchase at your local store for any evidence of
infestation. Beetles and weevils often
invade grains if the plastic packaging has been damaged in some way, allowing
them access. If you happen to notice
small, brown, cylindrical objects floating in your pot of boiling water
containing noodles or rice, these would be them.
In grocery
stores, stored product insects seem to prefer to congregate in pet food areas.
Store grains
in sealed glass or metal containers or just refrigerate them. This will also discourage ants from feeding
on them also. Adding a bay leaf to each
container or canister will help repel these insects as well.
Diatomaceous
earth and silica gel can both be used safely to disinfest storage bins from
grain weevils and other insects such as flour and grain beetles.
High temperatures and cold storage are used by many
food service companies to minimize damage from stored product insects.
Neem has been shown to be very successful in reducing
populations of insects that infest stored grain such as bean or rice weevils
and grain beetles. Grain movement
(gentle tumbling) helped to enhance the effectiveness.
Eucalyptus and citrus oil extracts have insecticidal
properties against some storage insects such as the red flour beetle and the
lesser grain borer.
Eugenol and
camphor, essential oils found in basil and some other plants, have been shown
to be toxic to some stored product insects such as grain and rice weevils and
red flour beetles.
Nutmeg oil
has also been used as a grain fumigant against the red flour beetle. In fact,
nutmeg oil has caused some beetles and grubs to just stop feeding.
Cinnamaldehyde,
an extract of the spice, cinnamon, a common food flavoring, has shown some
effectiveness as a fumigant against the red flour beetle and some weevils.
Essential oils of anise, cumin, oregano, palm,
turmeric, catnip, mugwort, and rosemary, have all shown varying levels of
toxicity against some stored product insects.
Pea flour
has also been shown to be toxic when used in storage bins against some weevils
and red flour beetles.
In
The
warehouse pirate bug, Xylocoris flavipes, is an effective predator and
control agent against stored product insects such as the red flour beetle.
Pyrethrum, a
botanical derived from Chrysanthemum flowers is effective against some
stored product insects. There is some evidence, however, to suggest that they
are also becoming increasingly resistant to the use of pyrethroids.
Selected
fungi (e.g. Metarhizium anisopliae) have also been used with some success
in biocontrol programs against insects such as grain borers.
Entomopathogenic nematodes
(e.g. Steinernema spp.) have been used to control certain storage bin
insects such as grain and flour beetles.
Microwave irradiation
treatments have been used to induce beetle and weevil storage insect mortality
in experiments in
"Bugs"
belong to a specific family of insects (Heteroptera) and can be
identified by characteristics similar to the assassin bug (pictured above left)
or the bed bug (pictured above right).
Bugs are a large group whose members have piercing mouthparts and include
predators, parasites, and plant-eaters.
The triatomine assassin bug (also called the “kissing” bug) is a vector of
Chagas' disease in humans. These bugs
may carry a parasite called a trypanosome in their blood, which can sometimes
transmit this disease to humans and animals.
Chagas’
disease is transmitted to humans through the bugs’ feces, which is sometimes
inconveniently left behind by the bug during or after feeding. If the contaminated feces enter the
bloodstream of the host through the bite, then the host can become infected.
Triatomine bugs feed on blood, and live in or near homes where
they hide during the day in shaded areas such as cracks or crevices, under
beds, etc. They become active at night, searching for a
warm-blooded host.
During the
day, these bugs prefer shelters that provide them with very high temperatures
and very low humidities.
Brazilian
studies have shown that these bugs prefer to hide during the day in roofing
materials (i.e. roofing tiles) used in the construction of domestic animal
shelters (e.g. goat/sheep corrals, henhouses, and pigpens).
Studies out
of the Ecuadorian Amazon seem to indicate that the susceptibility to being
bitten by one of these bugs increases if you live in a house with a thatched
roof or if the walls are open to the outside, or are of mixed construction
materials.
Triatomine bugs prefer to feed on animals that people tend to
domesticate such as rodents, cats, dogs, chickens and other birds, pigs, goats,
sheep, rabbits, horses, and cows. They also can be
found among wild animals including nest-building mammals and birds.
Among these
animals, chickens seem to be one of their favorites, as they often seek refuge
in chicken coops. Some evidence suggests that homes or other buildings that are
built nearby (within 40 feet) are more susceptible to being invaded by them.
Some
evidence from Argentina suggests that your odds of being bitten by one of these
bugs increases significantly with the number of dogs, cats, or chickens that
are in the same house with you.
Studies from
Like other
blood-feeding insects, triatomine bugs seem to be attracted to the CO2 exhalations from human and animal breath.
Because
these bugs are attracted to CO2,
traps baited with yeast have had some success in capturing these insects in
experiments done in
Deforestation
and immigration have been associated with an increase in the transmission rates
of Chagas’ disease.
Some
evidence out of
Bed nets
impregnated with the pyrethroid, deltamethrin, have also shown some success in
reducing exposure to these assassin bugs.
Studies from
Some evidence suggests that triatomine bugs that
vector Chagas’ disease are also repelled by Deet®.
Some studies have shown that assassin bug nymphs are
susceptible to pathogenic fungi (e.g. Evlachovaea sp.,
Metarhizium anisopliae, and Beauveria
bassiana). Daily high humidities
seem to be an important factor when applications are made to more effectively
control populations.
Some preliminary evidence out of
An Argentine study suggests that extracts from sage
(i.e. Salvia gilliessi) may inhibit the progression in cell cultures of
parasites that cause Chagas’ disease.
Argentine studies have also shown that peppertree
extracts (i.e. Schinus molle) are good repellents against assassin bug
nymphs.
Bugs (in the garden) can be controlled by the following insect predators which
you can purchase for your individual use, and are available commercially from
producers and suppliers:
Mirid Bug (Deraeocoris brevis)
Spined Soldier Bug (Podisus maculiventris)
Parasitoid Wasps (Various spp.)
Bed bugs (pictured above right) are flattened wingless insects that hide during
the day along cracks and crevices in beds, mattresses, furniture, walls, and
floors. They have also been found behind
electrical outlets. They come out only
at night, or in the early morning hours to feed on their preferred host which
is humans.
Suspect you have bed bugs if you notice reddish brown
or black droppings or streaks (dried blood) along mattress seams, in wall
cracks, etc. You also may notice
clusters of eggs or egg cases glued to these surfaces.
Some heavy infestations have produced odors resembling
the smell of fresh raspberries, but this is not always the case.
Bed bugs are attracted to humans by heat, body odors
such as from sweat, and expired breath (CO2).
Like mosquitoes, bed bugs
are repelled by air movement and can be flushed out of hiding places with
forced air. They also avoid the light,
so a flashlight can be used to search for them.
Bed bugs tend to bite in areas around the face, neck,
and arms. Although they could
theoretically vector disease due to their life history, they are not known to
transmit diseases to humans.
After feeding, a bed bug may not feed again for
another week or more, but can live more than a year without feeding.
Bed bugs infestations tend to be highest where people
are crowded together in specific areas such as in dormitories, hostels, hotels,
fraternities, apartments, rooming houses, homeless shelters, and refugee
camps. They are spread primarily by
humans, and are also becoming more common due to increased global traveling by
people in general.
To reduce your home exposure to bed bugs:
Launder
clothing and sleepwear regularly to remove trapped bed bugs.
Discard
ripped or torn mattresses.
Steam clean beds and bedding.
Vacuum, steam
clean, or replace carpets.
Seal cracks
in floors and walls.
Replace or de-infest wooden furniture.
Replace or
de-infest floorboards, baseboards, and wooden trim.
Silica gel and diatomaceous earth can both be used
inside houses to treat cracks, wall crevices, wall voids, and attics to repel
bed bugs and deny harborage in these areas.
Rooms with bed bug infestations can be treated with
heat treatments (i.e. space heaters) which can induce mortality in all stages
including the eggs at 115º F after about 10 minutes.
Bed bugs can survive long periods of below freezing
temperatures; however, about fifteen minutes of exposure to a temperature of
about -26° F will kill all stages including eggs. Dry ice can be used to disinfest personal
items in thermal containers.
Zippered mattress and box spring covers can be
purchased and used to protect beds from exposure to bed bugs.
Boric acid (20%) can also be used to treat cracks and crevices for bed bug
control.
In Tanzanian villages, bednets treated with
pyrethroids have been used to control infestations of bed bugs; however,
resistance can become more prevalent with their increased use.
When properly
trained, bed bug-sniffing dogs have been very successful at locating
infestations within structures such as homes and hotels, and are much less
prone to errors compared to humans when performing inspections.
Use soap sprays with citrus oil or pyrethrin to reduce plant bug populations.
Garlic and neem tree extract sprays have also been used with success against
plant bugs.
Cover fruits and vegetables in garden beds with finely-spun row cover material
sold at garden centers; these serve as a barrier to plant-eating bugs and other
insects (not recommended for use in high temperatures because of the increased
ground temperature and humidity).
Moths (like
butterflies) are common insects which can be recognized by scales on their
wings which come off like dust when handled.
Caterpillars are the immature or larval stage of the adults. They are mostly plant-feeders, but also can
feed on fabrics and food. Some are also predaceous on other insects.
Clothes moths (pictured above left) are small (about 1/2 inch) moths that may
be seen fluttering about in closets or over fabrics. They do not damage
clothing, and, in fact, are not known to feed at all.
Their caterpillars (also pictured above left) are the problem, as they feed
mainly on wool, silk, furs, and other animal products such as feathers, hair,
and leather. They cannot consume
synthetic fibers such as polyester.
Clothing which is left undisturbed for some time, or stored in dark, exposed
places (like closets), are most susceptible to injury by these caterpillars.
To de-infest clothing, thoroughly brush, shake, and hang clothing outdoors in
the bright sun for several hours before bringing them back indoors.
Brushing and shaking removes eggs. Larvae are repelled by sunlight, and will
fall off of clothing if exposed long enough.
To lessen your home exposure to clothes moths:
Store
susceptible garments in hole-free plastic storage bags or airtight chests.
Be sure clothing
is free of all eggs and larvae before storing.
Pest-free
fabrics stored in areas below 45 ° F. will be free of damage.
Dry clean wool or other sensitive garments to remove larvae.
Laundering
less sensitive clothing in hot water will also remove larvae.
Dust and
vacuum frequently in closets and other remote areas.
Woolen fabrics stored in attics that are regularly exposed to temperatures
above 100° F. for many hours during the day can be protected from damage
by clothes moths.
Keep in mind
that soiled or dirty fabrics are more susceptible to attack than clean ones.
Lemon verbena, French marigold, coriander,
southernwood, lavender, wormwood, whole cloves, cedar wood, and cedar oil
vapors can be effective repellents against clothes moths.
Lowering room temperatures will also discourage clothes moths.
Neem extracts have been shown to reduce feeding
responses and survival of clothes moth larvae.
Dry ice can be used as a fumigant against clothes
moths.
Leaf-feeding caterpillars (e.g. pictured above right) can be controlled by the
following insect predators which you can purchase for your individual use, and
are available commercially from producers and suppliers:
Lacewing (Chrysoperla carnea)
Chinese Preying Mantis (Tenodera sinensis)
Spined Soldier Bug (Podisus maculiventris)
Parasitoid Egg Wasp (Trichogramma spp.)
Mirid Bug (Deraeocoris brevis)
Hot pepper wax has been shown to be an effective repellent against leaf miners.
Garlic, black pepper, and neem tree extract sprays have been used effectively
to control larvae and adults.
Spiders and ground beetles in the garden will discourage the
appearance of leaf miners and other caterpillars.
Silica gel and diatomaceous earth can both be used in the garden to suppress
caterpillars.
Nematode (parasitic worm) sprays can be used to control caterpillars.
The use of soap sprays with citrus oil or pyrethrin can be used to repel
caterpillars.
Fish, petroleum, and vegetable oils have all been shown to be effective
deterrents against caterpillars.
Sweet and holy basil plants in the garden will also discourage the appearance
of caterpillars.
Cover fruits and vegetables in garden beds with finely spun row cover material
sold at garden centers; these serve as a barrier to caterpillars and other
insects (not recommended for use in high temperatures because of the increased
ground temperature and humidity).
Sticky traps, tapes, and tree wraps can be used to control and repel
caterpillars.
Various fungi (e.g. Metarhizium anisopliae and Beauveria bassiana)
can be purchased commercially and used as microbial insecticides to help
further reduce caterpillar populations.
Viruses are also commercially available which can help manage
plant-eating caterpillars such as leaf rollers and armyworms.
The Indianmeal moth is an insect whose larvae feed on stored
products such as flour and pet food. For
a more thorough discussion of control options, please see the section under BEETLES.
COCKROACHES
Roaches belong to a
large group of very familiar insects that includes crickets and grasshoppers.
Roaches have chewing mouthparts and can feed on practically anything.
Roaches do not directly transmit disease; however, they can contaminate food
with an enormous variety of microbial pathogens including the eggs and larvae
of parasites such as roundworms, bacteria such as Salmonella and E. coli,
and fungi such as yeast, many of which can lead to gastrointestinal problems
and infections in humans.
Roaches have an unpleasant odor, and, as most of us know, their presence can be
very annoying.
Roaches have been shown to contribute to the increased severity of symptoms
among asthma sufferers and others with respiratory problems due to the presence
of their cast skins and feces which can be allergens.
Some studies
indicate that roach allergen exposure early in life could even be used as a
predictor for the development of asthma.
The detergent, Spic ‘N Span™ can be used to remove these
allergens, but be sure to discard the rinse water to prevent the allergens from
being redistributed around the house.
Portable
vacuums such as Miracle Marketing’s Optimus® HEPA are available
commercially to help remove roach allergens more effectively.
To discourage roach appearances, caulk closed cracks
at the interface of walls and floors, counters, backsplashes on sinks, and
around electrical boxes and other wall-hung fixtures where roaches live.
The German roach (pictured above left) prefers to
settle in small, tight spaces. It is most common in kitchens and bathrooms.
Sealing cracks greatly reduces its preferred habitat. This roach is also highly attracted to odors
(pheromones) in the feces of other German roaches. Good sanitation and vacuuming can be
effective tools in reducing their numbers.
German roaches can be attracted to baits that contain
bread, stale beer, peanut butter, or Jack Daniel’s Whiskey®. Among these attractants, bread and beer
combos seem to draw the most German roaches.
Unlike American roaches, German roaches must eat in
order to reproduce. They also prefer
fats over proteins and carbohydrates. If
water is available, they can live for about a month without food.
The American roach (pictured above center) is considered more of a tropical
species, and prefers temperatures over 80 ° F. and humid conditions. It is often found in basements, restaurants,
bakeries, and grocery stores. These roaches often cannot survive very long in
residential homes if humidities fall below 45% and moisture or water is
unavailable.
The American
roach is one of the fastest animals on Earth (the tiger beetle is the fastest
land animal), capable of reaching speeds of 200 miles per hour in short
bursts. At top speeds, they have been
videotaped running on only two legs, much like a human.
Smokeybrown
roaches (pictured above right), which are actually large and shiny black, can
be found mostly outdoors on structures around suburban homes. They are often
found flying towards porch lights.
Smokeybrowns
occasionally enter homes where they can be found in areas where moistures
levels are high. They also like to infest attics, and like American and German
roaches, can be reduced or eliminated with the use of blowers or fans since
they are very vulnerable to drying out.
A bowl of
cheap wine placed under the sink will kill roaches; they drink, fall in and
die.
Mix four parts borax, four parts flour, one part cocoa, and put mix wherever
you see roaches run. Mixing equal parts
of boric acid and oat flour will also produce an effective
bait for controlling roaches.
Set out water and dry cement where roaches visit; they will ingest both and
die.
Ultrasound is not effective in repelling roaches.
Cedar, Japanese mint, scotch spearmint, and bay leaves are good natural
repellents and make good barrier treatments.
Woodstream
Corporation’s Victor Poison-Free Ant & Roach Killer® uses a 4%
Japanese mint essential oil blend as an effective knockdown treatment for
American and German roaches.
Ordinary
soap sprays or common household cleaners (e.g. Fantastik®, Dawn® and 409®) can also be used against roaches
for similar knockdown effects; often they will induce mortality as well.
Cleaners are more effective against German roaches and their nymphs. American
roaches are less susceptible and may survive the effects of these sprays.
Dorsey Inc. (Shellshock®) is a desiccant made up of 85% diatomaceous
earth and comes in a squeeze dust applicator. It is slower acting (six weeks or
more), but roaches will stay away longer.
Desiccants
such as silica gels and diatomaceous earth products stimulate roaches and other
insects that come into contact with them to immediately seek out a moisture
source. Without a water source, they
will quickly dehydrate and die.
Dorsey Inc. (Repeel®) is a desiccant made up of diatomaceous earth and
citrus oil from orange peel and is useful as a barrier treatment.
Silica gel and diatomaceous earth can both be used inside houses to treat
cracks, wall crevices and voids, and attics to repel roaches and deny harborage
in these areas.
Organic Plus Inc. (Organic Plus®) is a desiccant registered for home and
garden use for roach control.
Pyrethrum, a botanical derived from Chrysanthemum flowers is effective
against roaches.
Pyrethrins
are considered to be slightly toxic to humans and animals, and should
therefore be used with some caution. There is some evidence, however, to suggest
that German roaches are becoming increasingly resistant to the use of
pyrethroids.
Use silica gel plus pyrethrin (e.g. Drione®) in wall voids to prevent
roaches from migrating between rooms; the short-lived pyrethrin serves as a
repellent barrier, while the silica gel provides long-term residual control.
Sprinkle boric acid powder or borax along baseboards, under and behind refrigerators and stoves, at the back edges of pantries and closets, and along cracks